Thought some people here might be interested, so here are some dyno charts from my IP3 Integra from a tuning session this summer.

Green line is stock ECU, red line is the Hondata S300 base tune with VTEC engagement set to 5000 rpm, blue line is the final tune we got before the clutch exploded.  We got the best power by pulling about 4-6 degrees of ignition timing from stock while on the VTEC cam.  Fuel was leaned out a bit since the stock and S300 baseline were at about 12:1 AFR.  VTEC engagment is at 5700 rpm stock, which is about 500 rpm higher than it should be for best mid-range performance.  Raising the rev limit from 8100 to 8400 rpm helped to keep the car from falling off of the high cam during 2-3 upshifts.

Power related mods: DC sports 4-2-1 header, ractive filter-on-a-stick intake, Hondata phenolic intake gasket, crank scraper, head milled to get 10:1 compression.

Try looking at what the HP and torque are at the RPM you end up at if you shift at 7500.  Remember as well that gearing multiplies torque.

Personally I think it's proof that I'm not very good at building race engines .  I've talked with people who actually know what they're doing, and they claim to be at 165ish whp on an IT build.

every dyno reads different and most runs are done with different variables.

Which Dyno was this done at?

I went back to the dyno in February to test a couple different things on my car.  I wanted to see if running open header would gain me any power (it didn't gain me anything), and I wanted to try some different intake lengths to see if I could shift around my torque curve at all. 

I built an intake for testing different lengths out of ABS plumbing pipe.  I cut myself 1", 2", 4", 8", 16" and 32" sections of pipe, which I could then combine to get any intake length from 1" to 63" in 1" increments, plus the length of the elbow pipe I had to use to get it to fit, which was 3".  The actual lengths I tested were 21" to 35" in 2" increments.

Here's what happened:



So, what I learned is that *if* I could fit an intake that long inside the engine compartment, I would probably get better pull off of corner 3, but it wouldn't affect much else.  Just a FYI for the other guys who will be racing GS-Rs this year.

Very strange torque curves as you increased your intake lengths. What diam was the pipe?

I would not have thought that it would have made that much of a difference in altering the intake before the throttle body .
In terms of Intake manifold runner length, a longer narrow intake runner produces better torque at low RPM, while a shorter wider intake runner produces better power at high PRM.  note that the intake port on the cylinder head forms part of the intake runner. Thus the intake runner length is measured from the intake valve seat to the intake runner bell mouth, and not from the end of the intake manifold.
I see you got the same type of result in altering the air intake as you would on altering the runner lengths and would bet a thinner long tube would show even less of a torque drop when shifting.